Honda crv wont rev past 3000
What's New? Log in. Remember Me? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 25 of Well, as unbelievable as it may seem, after having the car '82 GT with a 4bbl Holley for almost a month, I just revved the engine above RPM today. I was sitting in the garage with the car running thinking over my exhaust problem and decided to rev the engine up near the redline to see how it handled it. As it reaches about RPM it starts to stumble and fluctuate and wont rev any higher. What's the problem?
I assume its either an ignition or fuel problem but not the exact source. The only info that I know is true about the ignition and fuel systems is that I just changed out the wires and plugs with new stock replacement and gapped them to the spec in the Hayes manual.
Previous owner installed an Accell 50K volt coil. And then theres the cfm 4bbl carb. Thats all that I know is changed. Sounds like your hitting the rev limiter to me? This was sitting in neutral in my garage. I didn't think there was a rev limiter back then since its a carb with no computer. And if there was one it certainly wouldnt be at 3K because an old Motor Trend article on the car lists max hp at 4. XK RPM.
I'm gonna take it around the block tomorrow and rev it up while driving and see when happens. Originally Posted by critterkiller Check the plugswirescap and rotor Then check timing I never ran a vac. Fuel preasure can be checked with a vacum gaugejust remove the line from the carb. Do you have access to another tach to varify your readings?
Maybe the problem has something to do with your factory tach and not the engine.Our Address. Kings Mills, OH I have problem with my honda accord, it wont pass rpm the problem is I cannot exceed rpm, while speeding it would jerk at rpm and will not make the car exceed that mark.
When put in Park P or neutral N and you revv the engine it still wont exceed the rpm. Also these the videos of the problem which is taken by me. Vehicle is in limp mode when this occurs. Likely an electrical issue of some kind. Have you tried getting voltage readings from either? Voltage drop from the negative portion of the circuit to a frame ground? Boils down to either an electrical issue wiring wise or that ECU is having problems if the replacement parts are good.
I would be looking for a mechanical cause or perhaps an electrical one as suggested. More info here. Home Topic My Honda Accord wont pass rpm! My Honda Accord wont pass rpm! April 8, at pm Mohammed Albaharnah Participant. Note that: the oil level is ok nothing was wrong with air intake tube. Viewing 2 replies - 1 through 2 of 2 total.
Wayne Participant. April 9, at am EricTheCarGuy Keymaster. You must be logged in to reply to this topic.On her way to work she called to complain about a knock back feeling when she accelerates.
No sound, just the knockback feeling. Car struggles to accelerate past Engine light came on. Whats the best thing to do? What are the most likely culprits? Get the engine codes read and let us know what they are. Most chain auto parts stores have OBD-II code readers that they will loan you for free, then they will print the codes off the reader for you. The presence of that CEL means that a Diagnostic Trouble Code has been recorded, and the exact code s are the beginning of the diagnostic process.
From afar, and without knowing what DTCs have been recorded, nobody could possibly give you an accurate diagnosis. If you want to post back with the exact DTCs, then we can likely provide some specific ideas, but right now everyone would just be shooting in the dark. I know what an engine knock is. When that happens it can accelerate poorly, have harsh upshifts and downshifts, may stay in second gear, and not go very fast that way.
Great feedback so far thank you all. Im still waiting to hear back from wife if the engine light was steady. For this type of work, should I count on or avoid the dealer? I assume that depends on whats wrong… correct? With a 14 year old vehicle, there is no reason to go to a dealership for repairs. Any mechanic who is worth his salt should be capable of fixing this problem. Ask her what the tachometer you have one, right?
It can be driven in limp-home mode, but at reduced speeds provided the engine light is not flashing, but steady. Wife may have to take side-streets instead of highway or free-way limping, right? Feel the magic! Been there, done that.Two things can happen — the vehicle does not accelerate at all or as fast as it should be. You can pin down the problem on several causes and some can be complex enough to earn a visit to the mechanic.
Regular maintenance is the key to minimizing the chance of various issues. However, sometimes it becomes old enough to stay out of troubles. In fact, the high-mileage vehicles could also have this acceleration problem.
You should diagnose the symptoms and take action accordingly. It could be a worn out clutch pedal or the clutch fluid. The fluid should not go below the minimum level or cross the maximum level.
If it seems loose or the engine changes speed without accelerating or decelerating, the clutch is definitely the origin of the problem. For example, a pollution error could trick the computer system to think that the car has been producing excessive fume.
In response, it will make the engine to lose power slowly, which gradually leads to trouble with acceleration. You have to go to a car servicing to find out what is wrong with it.
The fuel can collect sludge over time that often comes from the fuel tank. Dirt makes the fuel heavy, making it unable to move freely from the tank to the engine. Proper lubrication is vital in making the acceleration highly responsive. You have to clean the filter or replace it with a new one to solve this issue. A worn out or damaged timing belt will affect the acceleration. But, a newly replaced belt could also be the culprit. Why does this happen?
Choose a professional mechanic to do the replacement because the improper installation will result in worse acceleration than before.
They transport fuel and air from and to the engine and different supply points and connectors. Imagine you are driving your car and find out that it is losing power when you accelerate. What are the reasons behind this? Well, there are only 2 reasons responsible for this.
Either your car is running out of fuel or it does not have enough power. And there are lots of causes behind your car losing the POWER especially when accelerating, some of them are:. But if you are experiencing any of acceleration issues, you should not ignore it. The longer you try to ignore them, the more accidents are increased.
They tend to concentrate on one probable source of the trouble whereas paying no attention to what is the cause at hand. That will develop other trouble to surface in the future.Our Address.
Kings Mills, OH Hello all and thank you in advance for your help. I have a Honda Civic EX, 1. The car wont rev pass 4k rpm. I replaced both vtec selinoid and pressure switch. Also did an oil change with filter. Drove the car after repair.
The vtec engaged normally. Really confused here. Did you replace the whole VTEC solenoid valve assembly? First thing that comes to my mind is to give the the filter B in this a really really good cleaning, and also the inside of the valve assembly.
I have seen a simple filter cleaning take care of the job many times in the past.
Honda CR-V rev limiter problems
Try giving the filter a good cleaning, clear your code and let us know how it works out. If still having problems, I can give you some steps to go through to trace any possible faults in the wiring for the solenoid.
So today, I went into the wiring for the vtec pressure switch. The blue wire with black stripe looked good. The brown and yellow wire didnt look right; It had splices all over. I made a video as it is easier to illustrate. This wire then goes straight into B15 on the ECM. Who knows what all those other wires are for. Home Topic honda civic EX vtec problem—P November 6, at am Viewing 7 replies - 1 through 7 of 7 total. November 6, at pm Mitch M Participant.
November 7, at am I can take more pictures or videos. Thanks again for all your help. Someone was in there. November 8, at am You must be logged in to reply to this topic.Sign In with Edmunds. Howdy, Stranger! It looks like you're new here.2005 Honda CRV Throttle Position Sensor Location & Problem
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Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs. October edited December in Honda. October Check the oil level.
Improper oil weight or infrequent oil change can do that. Or it just died on its own. Low oil sends the engine into the "limp mode" no VTEC actuation at all. Your check engine light should have come on as well as the low oil light. Infrequent oil changes, improper oil weight, or improper filter will affect the VTEC solenoid operation as well. VTEC is actuated by oil, if the viscosity is not right, it will not live long.
Good luck. Go to Auto Zone and read the code. It may say that it is the VTEC solenoid. If you are unsure what weight of oil speedy lube put it, change it your self with 5W and see if the RPM limit goes away. By the way, are you checking the RPM rev limit in Neutral? There is program in the computer not to let the engine rev past RPM when in neutral or at stand still. This is done to prevent the pistons from going faster than the speed of sound and damaging the connecting rods.
Or a more trivial application is to prevent people from dropping the clutch at redline. You have to check it in gear while in motion. It might cause a loss of power but the engine still should go to redline like a non-VTEC motor. The most common cause of that, and I'm only guessing here, would be a timing belt which is too loose and slipped one tooth, or a restricted exhaust system.
Also a weak or restricted fuel delivery might cause it, like the fuel filter pickup inside the tank became clogged, or the fuel pump is not putting out the maximum pressure required.The rpms will not go over rpms, the engine stalls, but runs fine at rpms.
I have a Honda Accord and I was having the same problem. I bought new spark plugs, changed the oil to high mileage oil, changed the oil filter, and changed the air filter. Since then the car has been running great.
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I cant tell you which one of these specifically fixed the problem but I did them all at the same time and it fixed the problem. Good luck. Car sputters at low RPMS. Recent items changed, Coil pack in distributor, rotor, cap, plug wires plugs this was all aroundCar worked fine till this morning it lost power no RPMs won't stay on idle?
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